SPRING 2018 LONDON FASHION WEEK
Burberry Brings Back Heritage Check
Spring 2018 London Fashion Week. This season the coats came in colourful, semi-sheer rubbery material that seemed to be plastic in spite of Burberry’s tip towards luxury. In soft colours, but with that faint suggestion of sex that emanates from rubbery clothing, these raincoats seemed more 21st century than a scattering of the brand’s familiar check raincoats.
Another element was knits, colourful and patterned, representing Scottish style, even when mixed with lace as well as tartan. A reference to Burberry’s historical link with the British army came in a bold mini skirt made to look like a repurposed formal uniform jacket. Like most of the see-now-buy-now Burberry online offerings, that skirt cost nearly £2,000 and was nearly sold out within hours of the show. So were diamante jewels, bold and sparkling for both sexes, adding yet another clash of texture and context. – Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor
Simone Rocha’s Romantic Feelings
There was an eerie Victorian edge to this collection that took its cue from Simone Rocha’s vintage dolls and unfurled in sweeps of satin and tulle, flashes of lace and white eyelet, plus ruffles and bows galore. The designer played with volume, proportion and layering, as in a sequined apron skirt over a flower-printed gown, or a black embroidered tulle dress over a long satin one. Those silhouettes were often cluttered and unwieldy, overwhelming models’ frames and bordering on cartoonish. – Samantha Conti, WWD
Animal Protesters Take Over London Fashion Week
The British Fashion Council sent an email to fashion week attendees urging them not to wear fur to keep them safe from protesters. This was in response to the 250 animal rights protesters that appeared at the Burberry event and delayed the show by 15 minutes. Police had to make a human wall and usher in a few people at a time due to the severity. Also, they were seen protesting in front of the British Fashion Councild building and at the Olivia Palmero X Banana Republic event, claiming to protest Palmero’s use of fur in her personal life.
“Our petition against [the British Fashion Council] currently has over 200,000 signatures and our campaign video has surpassed 1 million views. It is time for the British Fashion Council to listen to what we’re saying,” said Ed Winters, co-founder of vegan activist group Surge, who is demanding that the BFC ban fur at London Fashion Week.
Erdem’s Bubble Dress
Erdem’s take on the idea, a Fifties inspired pouf of a dress with an embroidered tulle overlay, had a much grander tone. But that’s to be expected when one’s collection is inspired by such icons as The Queen, Dorothy Dandridge and Billie Holiday. His dresses — fantastic stunners in jewel tone brocades, crystal embroidered florals and silk tinsel — would elevate any red carpet. – Kenya Hunt, Elle UK
Emporio Armani’s First London Fashion Week
From one kind of royalty to another, Maestro – as they call him – decked out his first show on British grounds in eleven years in candy jar pastels and whimsical embellishment, flexing his sportier and more lightweight muscle in a collection that cemented an ongoing direction he simply referred to as “fun.” –
Christopher Kane’s Crocs are Back
There was more than just a whiff of disinfectant to this spring collection that took many of its cues from the aisles of Wal-Mart, what with the sparkling house coats, mop skirts and clothes pin embellishments. When Christopher Kane’s Crocs are back he wasn’t in the cleaning aisle, Kane was taking a good look behind the double-glazed windows and lace curtains of suburbia and reporting back what he saw. “A domestic goddess I suppose, a really amazing strong character, perfect and breaking down inside. There’s always a dark secret.”
Kane’s lady may be anxious and depressed, but she’s also resourceful, turning doilies into the collar and cuffs of a shiny black patent coat, and the shower curtain into a skirt, worn with a slashed sweater. Poufy white tops and skirts were inspired by the humble mop, while the tiers of undulating ruffles on skirts came straight from the ballgowns on bone china figurines. – Samantha Conti, WWD
J.W. Anderson’s Girly Collection
Despite making his name with ‘ugly’ genderless clothing, this was a pretty, girly collection, showing just how far his brand has evolved in the nine years since he made his debut. There were flashes of it, sure – perhaps in the deconstructed corsets, slashed skirts and flat walking boots – but this was overwhelmingly an aesthetically pleasing offering.
There were co-ords featuring midi-length skirts and matching off-the-shoulder crop tops, laced together with a belt sitting on the midriff; ankle-grazing knit dresses with metallic details; and a standout look was the champagne knitted dress layered over a crisp white collarless shirt. If dresses and skirts aren’t your thing, there was a great pair of simple white palazzo pants emblazoned with ‘J.W. Anderson’, and worn with a low-cut tunic in cream. – Rebecca Cope, Grazia
Tommy Hilfeger’s “Tommynow”
The Tommynow show closed out London Fashion Week featuring ambassador, Gigi Hadid’s third collection, which was full of grunge and rock inspiration. This was the first time since 2010 that the brand featured both men and women’s looks together since 2010. Gigi rocked ripped denim jean shorts then black leather shorts paired with thigh hight socks and boots. Many celebrities walked the runway including Bella Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Georgia May Jagger and Joan Smalls.
Click Fashion Month to learn more about the schedules for upcoming Milan and Paris Fashion Week’s.
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