What you missed during Milan fashion week fall 2018

Moschino Inspiration: Jackie Kennedy

Milan Fashion Week Fall 2018. Following last season’s maximal garden-inspired collection, the Italian fashion house looked to a different source of inspiration for its Fall 2018 show today: the women of the 1960s. Namely, Jackie Kennedy.

In a season full of ’80s-inspired collections, Moschino instead went full-on ’60s with a colorful runway that reimagined Jackie Kennedy’s signature look for 2018. Featuring oranges, purples, and yellows, the bright lineup of 62 looks recreated the late First Lady’s iconic tweed skirt suit and pillbox hat.

The skirt suits, hats, and tights weren’t the only colorful things to hit the runway though. A few of the models sported head-to-toe body paint in bright colors of neon yellow, blue, and lime green—making for an alien-like take on Jackie O’s classic style. – LAUREN ALEXIS FISHER, HARPERS BAZAAR

Versace’s College Cool Collection

The collection was full of throwbacks, whether it was those Cher Horowitz-worthy plaids or the black bodycon dresses that were ripped straight from Robert Palmer’s iconic music videos. Plaids were layered on top of each other in looks ranging from the casual, stitched up with denim, to the formal, billowed out in silk skirts paired with graphic tees. There was power suiting, Versace style: sleek, black blazers with pops of neon or fitted (and we mean fitted) pencil skirts with wide belts.

The millennial set will flock toward Versace’s take on sporty — get ready to see footballer scarves in primary colors everywhere come fall — and the sexy, fringed minidresses paired with animal print bodysuits. It’s all about the illusion of being covered up and dressed in layers when, in reality, everything is skintight — just the way Versace likes. Whether you pair it with vertiginous platforms or sporty sneakers is entirely up to you. – TYLER MCCALL, FASHIONISTA

Tommy Hilfiger X Gigi Hadid’s Race Track

The U.S. brand invited 1,000 loyal Milan customers to the city’s fairgrounds for the show, with the possibility to buy the exclusive wears even before they walked down the runway. The TommyNow Drive collection designed with Hadid was inspired by racing and with many 1990s influences featured bright primary colors that played well off of each other on the runway.

Hadid — who also has a Hilfiger-clad Barbie doll in her image — opened the show with a pair of blue and black leather racing leggings (499 euros) and a Hilfiger bandeau top, and closed in a long diaphanous layered maxi dress with racing logo prints (530 euros). It was the fourth collection that Hadid designed with the Hilfiger team, with the first three showing in Los Angeles, New York and London. – COLLEEN BARRY, THE WASHINGTON POST

Giorgio Armani

At today’s autumn / winter 2018 show at Milan Fashion Week, models wore oversized floppy faux fur versions in grey with bright flashes of pink, and hippy-style striped berets perched on the back of their heads. In parts, this collection felt inspired by the Tudor era.

To this end, pantaloon puffball shorts and skirts were worn with over-the-knee flat lace-up boots, while jacket and shirt sleeves were balloon shaped. Those huge hats were even reminiscent of those worn by Henry VIII, as were the fitted embroidered jackets.

Of course being an Armani show there was plenty of tailoring and eveningwear on show for the brand’s core customer. A recurring item was a pair of loose velvet trousers with a louche peplum, which were paired with sparkly blazers as well as jackets and knitwear with batwing sleeves. – HANNAH ROCHELL, EVENING STANDARD.

Fendi and Fila Collaboration

Menswear plaids and checks in greys and browns set the tone for the collection, offset by navys, plums and olives. Blazers and coats are built very literally boxy through the shoulders, a structural nod to the padded shoulders of the past. There were a few romantic dresses towards the back of the runway lineup in white, embroidered with delicate flowers for an effect not unlike your grandmother’s tablecloth. (It was pretty, I promise.) Skirts and dresses featured sharp knife-pleating, sometimes hidden away under a more structured layer of wool.

Of course, it being 2018 and all, the look got a millennial twist in the form of fur sweatshirts with the Fila logo (which was created by Scottish artist Hey Reilly, and then re-appropriated by Fendi) and on-trend Western boots in various leathers; influencers will be fighting over the PETA-unfriendly matching blazer and miniskirt set in fur. And Fendi got the memo that logomania is trending again, slapping their double-Fs on everything from coats to boots to (obviously) bags. – TYLER MCCALL, FASHIONISTA

Missoni’s 65th Anniversary

There was a patchwork coat early in this Missoni show that was pieced together from vintage swatches Angela Missoni discovered in the archive. Backstage she said, “This is Missoni’s 65th anniversary; I thought, Let’s start celebrating.” It’s a tribute to both the longevity and the timelessness of the label founded by Angela’s parents Rosita and Tai that the double-breasted, calf-length coat mixed so effortlessly with Angela’s own creations—ditto a pair of ’70s-ish patchwork flares.

Mix is absolutely the right word here. Missoni said the collection was a hodgepodge of cultures—Scottish, Jamaican, African, and Italiano, certo. Photos of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Lisa Bonet were pinned to the mood board, so there was New York in the late ’70s and early ’80s, too. – NICOLE PHELPS, VOGUE

 

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