Milan Fashion Week 2024 comes to an end: a summary of the most important events
Today, Monday 26 February, Milan Fashion Week 2024 dedicated to women’s autumn/winter 2024/2025 collections comes to an end. What were the most important events of the week? Continue reading to see the summary of the week.
Milan Fashion Week 2024 Womenswear: summary of all the most important events
Wednesday 21 February: the first day of the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week 2024
Diesel, 12.30 pm
Diesel’s “democratic” show, open to the public thanks to the distribution of 1000 tickets on the official website, proposed the multi-faceted triumph of denim, combined with transparencies and completely different finishes, floral or animalier prints, wool furs and puffer jackets with over and exaggerated proportions. Diesel’s motto is “dress for living”, hence the reason for the devoré jersey and the distressed shirts, to simulate the loss of colour through overuse.
The proportions vary, and we also find mini-dresses, mini-skirts and tops with prints of the screens in the shed at the time of the show, embellished with bold accessories, including the new bag proposals, including the Play Bag with prints featuring feline close-ups, the leopard print 1DR, the Scrunched D and the soft Trash D.
In addition, the last 72 hours of backstage, broadcast live on Instagram were also shared with the audience of fans. In summary, Glenn Martens is always going further with his goal of opening up fashion to anyone who wants to take part in it, underlining how Diesel wants to create more and more engagement by opening its doors to the very people who enable the brand’s constant growth, the consumers. Is this an approach that more fashion houses should consider? Or is it still right for fashion to remain an exclusive universe, reserved for those who work in it?
Fendi, 2 pm
Kim Jones proposed a show based on contrasts and traditions, combining in one collection the historical essence of the maison, inspired by the Roman archives and the centuries-old classicism of the capital, combined with the wave of London’s New Romantic of the 1980s, launched by the Blitz Kids who frequented the Blitz, a famous club in Covent Garden.
In short, savoir faire and tailoring have had their fullest expression in this collection, with its neutral and dark colour palette, enhanced by a few touches of colour, such as the electric blue tights. The proposals, though rather classic, subvert some of the classic patterns: we find jumpers dishevelled as if they were capes tucked in only by the neck, unbuttoned bodysuits worn over trousers, sleeveless garments, layers, mono-gloves and games of transparencies and textures, as well as classy bags enriched by the playful detail of the leather Chupa Chups holder.
Roberto Cavalli, 7 p.m.
Fausto Puglisi has transposed his passion for marble into this autumn/winter 2025 collection, transposing its majesty into the lightness of tailored clothes, which accompany and enhance the femininity of the customer’s body. In other words, marble seems to be the new animalier for Cavalli.
Etro, 8 pm.
With Etro’s fashion show, accompanied by Miglio’s Techno Pastorale soundtrack, we plunged into the sea in search of a lost treasure, accompanied by six sumptuous 3-metre coloured masks, representing the emotions evoked by the collection and the power of fashion.
The collection is sumptuous, enriched by impressive accessories, such as the golden necklaces that echo the large masks and the extravagant bags, such as the poisoned apple holder. The fabrics and embroideries are faithful to the creative director’s recent choices: there is no lack of Paisley and velvet, combined with transparencies and fabric feathers. In short, De Vincenzo’s work is focusing on the continuity of his signature style.
Thursday 22 February: Milan Fashion Week 2024
Prada, 2 p.m.
Miuccia Prada decided to lean on the influence of history to create the garments for the autumn/winter 2024 collection, proposing designs embellished with bows, ruffles and flounces, symbolising the rejection of adulthood, as well as a cliché of femininity.
This theme was also echoed in the back of most of the looks, left unfinished. In fact, the linings on the back are visible, often in pastel colours, more playful and in contrast with the more neutral colours of the outfits, echoing the vibe of professionalism conveyed by the men’s collection, presented in January during Milan Fashion Week 2024 Menswear in the same set.
The references to history are therefore many, starting with the references to the style of the 1940s, which we find in the uniforms, as well as in the silk lingerie-style items, while the bows pick up on a trend from the 1960s. In addition, the leather bomber jackets tell the story of the beginning of the history of the fashion house, showing the year of its foundation, 1913, a period when Prada was focused on leather goods.
Also celebrating the heritage is the use of nylon, a fabric distributed since 1935 and mainly used for military purposes, in the creation of uniforms and instruments, including ropes and parachutes.
In addition, the garments in the collection are specifically reminiscent of the clothes worn by the actors in Zone of Interest, an award-winning film that tells the story of a family leading a peaceful life, in contrast to the horror and brutality of the adjacent Auschwitz. In short, to fully understand the collection proposed by Prada, it is necessary to dissect the different elements of storytelling, avoiding stopping at appearances and superficial judgements, as the main objective is to convey a profound social, as well as political, message.
Maison Margiela MM6, 3 p.m
The autumn/winter collection of MM6 Maison Margiela, the fashion house’s ready-to-wear line, saw a decidedly different proposition to the Haute Couture masterpiece in Paris. The show at Milan Fashion Week 2024 was decidedly more minimal and elegant, although Margiela’s eccentric touch did not go unnoticed.
Some of the cuts are reminiscent of garments made by Margiela for Hermès, such as the deep V-necklines, but we also find geometric designs, with padded straps or elements that change the shapes of the silouettes, making them more angular and decisive. The rectangular shape appears very often, reminiscent of pillowcases in Italian hotels, according to the team. There was no shortage of very capacious hand-carried bags in bold geometric shapes, including one in the shape of a pillow.
Concluding, the collection seems to open up towards a horizon of elegance and an edgy softness.
Emporio Armani, 5 p.m.
Emporio Armani, the brand’s most youthful line, proposed a series of looks inspired by the starry night, with dark but enveloping colours, with warm touches of red, sugar paper and pink, almost reminiscent of the colours of the sky during sunset. It was a journey into the evening, ending with an extremely romantic and dreamlike scene of black evening dresses, worn by the models under a shower of white confetti to recreate the magic of snow on winter nights.
Moschino, 6 pm.
The Moschino fashion show during Milan Fashion Week 2024 saw the highly anticipated debut of the brand’s new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza. The designer was appointed during the month of January, so the time he had to realise the collection was limited to say the least, which is why Appiolaza himself explained how this should be considered a ‘zero collection’, rather than his actual debut at the maison.
The 51-year-old designer has a long career in the fashion industry behind him: he was design director for ready-to-wear at Loewe for ten years, after working for two years with Clare Waight Keller, the former creative director of Chloé, two years under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and for four years at Prada, under Miuccia Prada.
The special features of the collection were certainly the playful details, such as trompe l’oeil details, including the baguette-shaped clutch bag or the rosette-shaped clutch bag, inspired by a look created in 1984 by Franco Moschino, in which the ingredients were contained in an Esselunga bag. We also find a shirt with printed braces, along with fun tricolour details or headwear in the shape of paper boats.
Some of the brand’s already characteristic symbols returned, such as polka dots and large question marks, along with prints reminiscent of newspaper sheets, those reminiscent of blue skies covered in white clouds and smiles.
In conclusion, so far there has been no lack of irony typical of the brand: we just have to wait for the next collections to be able to confirm or deny this statement.
GCDS, 7 pm.
The GCDS fashion show conveyed an interesting mix of sensations and elements, combining a purely childlike imprint with darker tones, almost with references to horror. Giuliano Calza’s aim was to represent and give voice to the child that has always been in us, mixing the elements we loved the most, such as Hello Kitty and socks with ruffles, and some details that frightened us, such as horror films, whose prints we find on some t-shirts.
It is no coincidence that the invitation to the show was a horror doll, accompanied by the words ‘toys for adults’, to introduce the vibe of the show. In short, Calza wanted to take us back in time to remind us that childhood has no age and that we should always take care of the child in us.
Tom Ford, 8 pm.
The Tom Ford show during Milan Fashion Week 2024 was a tribute to sensuality and extreme glamour, emphasised by the location with soft lighting and the perfume worn by the models on the catwalk, Vanilla Sex, with its warm and enveloping tones. In summary, the fashion show was able to offer a complete sensorial experience, also supported by the wide variety of fabrics used in the creation of the collection, such as voluminous felt, patent leather, wool, light satin jersey and luminous, reflective silk.
The bold and glossy make-up played a key role in accentuating the sensuality of the proposals, also thanks to a rather imprecise implementation, following one of the most fashionable trends of the last period, that of the mob-wife.
Moreover, in the front row we saw the faces of some famous celebrities, such as Sharon Stone, Uma Thurman, Eva Green, Amber Valletta and Iris Law.
Friday 23 February: Milan Fashion Week 2024
TOD’s, 9.30 a.m
If we could represent Milan in a piece of clothing, surely it would be a light blue shirt. It is a blend of ambition and restraint, formality and nonchalance; it is a uniform that originated in the masculine wardrobe but freely defines the feminine; if the blue collar makes “right,” then the white collar makes “duty.”
Matteo Tamburini made his debut at the Tod’s fashion show with two light blue striped shirts and an overlapping game. And he pulled together bourgeoisie and dynamism, his own history and that of the iconic Della Valle group brand, all with a pair of red Gommino moccasins in the Yorky version, adorned with thin fringes.
Leonard Cohen’s Avalanche and Nirvana’s Alla Apologies were playing in the background at the ATM tram depot in Darsena, Via Messina (which oversees the city’s public transport, ed.). As a result, the creative director created a love letter to Milan and the Milanese way of living, which ceases to be a trait of ancestry and becomes a mindset that anyone can adopt.
Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, 12.30
A tribute to Hitchcock’s female characters, including Janet Leigh, Ingrid Bergman, Kim Novak, and Tippi Hedren, is presented in the Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini autumn/winter 2024–2025 fashion show. At Milan Fashion Week on Friday, February 23, in the late morning, the brand honored several iconic female characters who were first portrayed on screen by the renowned Sir Alfred Hitchcock. It was a masterful work of cinematic citation.
The collection, which offered the master of thrills’ personal interpretation of modern femininity through details such as satin shoes, tailored coats and Technicolor green, actually celebrated the wardrobe of an intelligent, strong, and elegant woman who faces life with the right amount of confidence mixed with that impeccable refinement that united the women portrayed by the master of thrills in his legendary films, from Vertigo (The Twice Living Woman) to Marnie, from Notorious to Psyco, to name but a few.
Gucci, 3 p.m
The collection has shades of black, lime green, midnight blue, grey, red variations, and every other shade that is labeled as such. Lace, GG on leather, degradé transparent sequins and crystal fringes, and patterns where color always takes center stage are the only exceptions.
Subsequently, it becomes a challenge in exposing multiple body parts: billowing ribbons that transform into necklaces around the neck, coats worn as long dresses or mini-dresses, culottes worn as shorts, safari jackets, and dresses featuring deep slits that open up at the front to reveal the chest.
Marni, 4 p.m
In its raw form, fashion is an instinct-driven game of creation and destruction, assemblage and composition, where participants create, alter, structure and deconstruct, destroy, and shape. Francesco Risso decided to shape the Marni autumn-winter 2024–2025 fashion show in this way. With the hands and vision of a young child who never dreamed of becoming a designer, he wanted to approach what is condensed in the 30-year history of the brand, which was founded in 1994 by Consuelo Castiglioni. Which is precisely what occurred to him, in the end.
He transformed his inner zoo into a paper cave for his quiet moments and loud ones during Milan Fashion Week 2024. He explained the symbolic meaning of clothing layered in the five letters that make up the word Marni, which he learned means that which is born from the sea and the waves in Latin.
Sunnei, 5 p.m
We watch the models walk down the catwalks with great earnestness, mindlessly, as they put one foot in front of the other and show the world clothes that no one has ever seen before.
“I wonder if they are comfortable in those vertiginous heels on which they balance so precariously. I wonder how much they get paid for this walk of a few minutes. Are they cold? Do they even like what they’re wearing? Damn, what a beauty this model is, I wish I were as tall as her”
But during those minutes, as they parade in front of hundreds of people (plus thousands more watching on their computers at home), what are the models thinking about? Sunnei’s fashion show at Milan Fashion Week 2024 allowed the models to speak and give voice to everything, even ridiculous things, that were going through their minds.
Versace, 7.30 p.m
“This collection has a rebellious character and a kind heart. The woman is a good girl with a wild spirit. She is formal but sexy,” explains Donatella Versace. “The man is her soul mate, a shy genius. They break rules to create new ones. The clothes take the codes of contemporary tailoring and twist them with cuts, draping and ornamentation. The collection focuses on pure lines, innovative fabrics and a rational indomitability. This is us. This is Versace!”.
There are two strands standing out in the name of rebellion. One end of the spectrum features less precise tailoring, while the other features the world’s most fashionable and well-known clothing.
Starting with the world of fashion, rebellion is subdued by unanticipated factors. Excessive lengths are experimented with on the catwalk, as seen in the sequin-studded blazer dresses and extra-long coats. A long skirt with a slit and a micro tuxedo combine to create an appearance that seems to be cut in half, exemplifying how deconstruction can make the formal world super sexy.
Saturday 24 February: Milan Fashion Week 2024
Ferrari, 9.30 a.m
The body “projecting itself into space, transforming itself into light” is celebrated in Ferrari’s red and black fashion show.
The collection is very symbolic, for example, flame-like clothing representing pure-blooded glow that emerges from darkness and is never equal to itself. And it has also travel-related accessories inspired by the 1960s style, modeled after the ones that used to belong to Monica Vitti and Anna Magnani.
“Body, energy, and light” is how Rocco Iannone describes the Ferrari.
Our bodies are frequently undervalued by us; frequently, we forget their critical significance, torture them, and overwork them. But the body is more than just its outer shell; it is our powerful, passionate energy, our machine. Ferrari’s autumn-winter 2024–2025 collection, which recently debuted on the Milan Fashion Week catwalk, serves as a reminder of this.
The creative director Rocco Iannone explains:
“I’m interested in tension. As in the automotive world, craftsmanship and technology are a mission for Ferrari, which never ceases to exist. I want to bring this exact principle into the fashion collections. The reference to the automotive world is becoming less and less literal; of that universe I am interested in the intention not the formal component.”
Ferragamo, 11.30 a.m
A strong Ferragamo collection evoked the brand’s history while infusing it with fresh vitality, featuring a man-woman mirroring that came to life on the catwalk. Maximilian Davis introduced a cross-roads rigor and early post-war surrealism to Milan for fashion week. He enclosed it in a visual journey on paper to tell the story and showcase his new designs.
Dolce & Gabbana, 2.30 p.m
A perfect combination set the tone for Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan Fashion Week show: the invitation to the Fall Winter 2024–2025 collection, which introduced the tuxedo, and the song Murphy’s Law, that played in the background the entire time.
The message of the hit song and the tuxedo are similar: like Róisín Murphy sings, I feel like my story hasn’t been told enough. But this is a Murphy’s law done backwards and with a happy ending. Even though the tuxedo is a wardrobe staple, we are always excited by it.
Jil Sander, 4 p.m
The Jil Sander fall/winter 2024–2025 fashion show features two muses, Mariacarla Boscono and Kasia Smutniak, and introduces the new block color minimalism to the catwalk. It is incredibly elegant and sophisticated.
An electronic and emotional soundtrack that transports us on an extraordinary modern journey through raw, occasionally celestial vibrations: the red thread running through the whole Jil Sander autumn/winter 2024–2025 fashion show is precisely the embodiment of a new kind of minimalism that plays with color and shape during Milan Fashion Week.
Bottega Veneta, 8 p.m
“In a world on fire, there is something profoundly human in the simple act of dressing.”- The creative director of Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy, states in the note to the Fall-Winter 2024–2025 fashion show.
A line that jumps out at you from the scene, captured in the warm, soft light of a sunset over the desolate region of Calabria. Handmade further north on the island of Murano, glass cacti are dotted throughout the desolate area. These are crystallized flowers that grow even in the absence of life. This time, the stools are a limited-edition, charred wood-effect Tabouret Cabanon LC14 design by Le Corbusier. And it’s within this singular prairie home that a line ignites, burning away all superfluity.
Sunday 25 February: Milan Fashion Week 2024 shows
Feben supported by Dolce&Gabbana, 9:30 am.
The London-based brand made its debut during Milan Fashion Week 2024, supported by Dolce&Gabbana, and wanted to highlight the possibility of bringing out the best in every body type, allowing anyone to feel enhanced to the point of being a work of art. The proposed looks, in fact, adapt perfectly to every physique, presenting numerous draping and stripes that make the silouettes more slender, also thanks to the stiletto heels.
In short, the designer Feben, who was born in North Korea with Ethiopian origins and later moved to Switzerland and England, also wanted to pay homage to some African traditions, with the proposal of a “soft” version of the dress with spikes.
Giorgio Armani, 11.30 a.m.
Armani’s fashion show for Milan Fashion Week 2024 was decidedly romantic in tone, though not exaggerated. The collection is a tribute to the close relationship with nature, which is why we notice an abundant presence of floral prints in soft colours. The silouettes are soft and liquid, in total respect of the maison’s harmonious and timeless elegance.
AVAVAV, 3.30 pm.
AVAVAV’s fashion show for Milan Fashion Week 2024 is causing a lot of talk: the show was intended to simulate the violence of online haters and cyberbullying, but what got viewers most excited was the way the message was chosen to be conveyed. In addition to projecting hate-filled comments on either side of the entrance door, the audience threw cans and crumpled newspaper pages at the models for the duration of the short show, obstructing the catwalk space and hitting them directly, sometimes even in the face.
Many did not appreciate the gesture, considering it exaggeratedly intrusive and degrading to the models. Moreover, at the end of the show the creative director received a pie in the face: in short, what is certain is that AVAVAV knew how to make people talk about her, for better or worse.
Conclusion: this is a summary of some of the most important events of Milan Fashion Week 2024.
Read more:
Max Mara shows at Milan Fashion Week 2024: Activists protest against fur
Boss and Naomi Campbell capsule collection 2024
New York Fashion Week 2024: Highlights
NEWSLETTER
Vuoi ricevere Mam-e direttamente nella tua casella di posta? Iscriviti alla Newsletter, ti manderemo un’email a settimana con il meglio del nostro Magazine.
